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HARNESS COMBO WITH ATC GUIDE FREE

If the elevator drop results in hitting a feature in the rock or the ground. However if the elevator drop lasts for 2 to 6 feet! Well… you better hope you have an extra pair of shorts and some extra toilet paper left in your pack for your climber to clean themselves. This isn’t a big deal when it only lasts a couple of inches. An “Elevator Drop” is a slang term referring to a rapid drop to a sudden stop. The real drawback is that it is easy to “Elevator Drop” the climber that you are lowering. Also, it is easy to set up a mechanical advantage raise with this device as it is the preferred ratchet component by most guides for a mechanical haul.

HARNESS COMBO WITH ATC GUIDE FREE

However, better than the ATC this device allows the guide to go hands free easier with the use of stopper knots or perhaps the Mule off and overhand (Same as the Münter Mule Overhand MMO). There is no ability to approach the cliff and maintain visibility. This traps the guide at the master point. Notice that similar to the 1st ATC lower mentioned the break strand is behind the device and also the lever on the Gri Gri must be operated to allow the climber to lower. This is NOT the preferred “guide’s” method. More common with recreational climbers and is common cause of the pants loading “elevator drop”.

Long Application (takes time to set it up)*usually because you aren’t belaying climber to top of cliff with a direct tube style/ATC belay*Īuto-Assistive Device aka “Gri Gri”: the Nitty Gritty, direct lower using a Gri Gri… rarely used in guide application.

Difficult to Place Climber On Belay During Lower.SUMMARY: Redirect break strand from ATC through a LOCKING carabiner and apply 3rd hand. This method is very common in top down approaches. This a super important safety adding to some redundancy to this system. This would remove the friction power of the tube device placing the lowered climber in extreme danger! Also notice the application of the 3rd Hand. ALWAYS USE A LOCKING CARABINER FOR THE REDIRECT! I recommend a locking carabiner because were the rope to fall out of the redirect and the guide is located downhill from the master point. Also in this picture a non-locking carabiner is being used.

During the lower the friction of the rope on a piece of rope, webbing, or cordalette could compromise the integrity of the anchor. Be certain to make sure that the rope is not rubbing the master point or any element of the top anchor. The break strand of the device is redirected through a carabiner located in the shelf. This tool’s method of application is implicit in the title. The Tube Style Device aka “ATC”: Redirected Break Strand A common guide tool to provide a smooth lower and allows the guide the approach the edge of the cliff and maintain climber visibility through out lower.

Limits Visibility of Climber Being Lowered.

Guide Location Limited (stuck behind the master point).

This places the guide behind the device the entire lower and limits the ability of the guide to approach the the cliff to maintain visibility of the climber being lowered. Notice that there is no 3rd hand applied and the break strand orientation is behind the device. The above picture is NOT the “guide’s” way of lowering with a tube style device. Read below to find out if you have all of these tools available and if you are using them safely… *I decided to leave out the Münter please don’t hate*?‍♂️ The Tube Style Device aka “ATC”: the Nitty Gritty, direct lower using an ATC… rarely used in guide application. The tool you select for a lower will be affected by your knowledge of the angle and type of terrain the shape, size, and type of master point that your device is attached to and perhaps the tool available (maybe you forgot to clip it to your harness). It would not only be boring to read this list but it might prevent you from practicing these skills. I will mention some but not all of the pros and cons with specific lowering tools, but again it is not meant to be a comprehensive list.

I will make some personal recommendations as well as some recommendations from other climbing guides I have worked with. It is meant to be an overview and general resource. This isn’t meant to be a comprehensive list of lowers and all of their intricacies. This is a review of tools/techniques for lowering a climber from the top of a, top managed top-rope climb. To save some of the furious fingers that may start sending emails and criticisms towards me please read the following.